It was a long weekend and we decided to go to Goa for 4 days. Day 3, we decided to go up to Dudhsagar Falls, 60 km from Panaji. It was as unpredictable as it could be – riding along railway tracks, crossing streams, my great fall – by the end of the day, I’d say it’s definitely one of the crazier trips.

From Goa, travel along NH4A towards Ponda – proceed towards Molem beyond Ponda. Once you reach Molem, watch out for the signboard for Colem. You’d turn right there and ride to the end of that road (about 7km). You’d find a number of guides/pilots willing to take you on a bike (for about 360INR). They are not the best people to ask for directions – they are more interested in scaring you in to riding their bikes.

We decided to go on our own and turned left – thankfully, there were some very helpful local folks who gave us directions. Before I get on with our route, a couple of pointers – There are a number of routes to the falls and the easiest would be to take the train to the Dudhsagar station. The road looked quite used (relatively) – still, not your normal road. Be prepared for some tough and careful riding. If you are not game for riding, you should take one of the guides along or take the train ride. It was a moment of relaxed riding that resulted in my head injury. Enough of scares – let’s get on with the route!

Turn left at the Dudhsagar board at Colem and find your way to the manned level crossing. As soon as you cross the railway tracks, you’d find a mud road going up to your left. You should leave the tarred road and get on to the mud road into the bushes. When you go up the mud road, you’d reach an unused railway track. This unused railway track will lead you to a path right next to the railway track in use. You’d reach around the 49/500 or so signboard. Keep riding till you reach 46/000 and 45/900. You should also find a milestone that has 51 on one side and 50 on the other. Around that spot, you should look for a bridge beneath the railway track. Look for the steps leading down – you’d also find a path for bikes. Riding down that path will lead you right into the stream flowing below the bridge.

As long as it is not monsoon, the stream should be crossable – it was hardly ankle-high when we crossed it last weekend. Once you cross the stream, that path would join another road at right angle. Turn right at this road and ride on – it is not a short ride from there – at least 10kms, I’d say. Somewhere along this road, I had my near fatal fall – resulting in 4 stitches. Please ride carefully!

The mud road, with slopes – up and down – and stones, big and small – will be your riding challenge. Keep riding till you reach the board that points to the falls, and refreshments (a closed shop).

It is quite a short walk from there to the falls. You’d cross the water a couple of times before you can get right in front of the falls. It is one trip where the journey is much better than the destination (purely, my opinion). In fact, if you are game enough to walk 14 km, it would be one of the nicest walks you’ve ever had.

The train gave a lot of opportunity to get some slow shutter photos. The next morning, we got in to the bus and headed towards Kolad. We headed straight to the rafting spot – and soon we were listening to the safety instructions. I’d say that was the scariest part of it all! Example: If you get under the boat, kick with all your might! Ouch! It looked quite precarious to sit on the side and not in the raft – but once we were in, I realised it was a lot bigger than the average bench you’d find at a roadside tea shop!

A practice session and a splashing match was going on while we waited for all the rafts to get in to the water! The guides were definitely better at throwing water – and our guide threw water on us as much as he threw on the others. Soon, we were out in the river – it was sunny and someone wanted rain. Soon, it didn’t just rain – it poured cats and dogs. Got to say, being on a raft in the middle of a river, next to rapids – is one of the best places to enjoy the rain. The only thing I missed was my camera – couldn’t risk taking it along

Once we were on the much calmer side of the river, they encouraged us to get off the raft and into the river! Not exactly something you’d want to do if you didn’t know to swim. But then, they pretty much dumped you off the boat – so, yes, for the first time in my life, I was in the water – floating, thanks to the life jacket. I’ve got to thank Pranav, the helping hand, who went out of his way to help me feel comfortable in the water – nice to have such people around you.

Soon we were out and were heading towards our resort – our bus stopped at the end of a road and we had to travel the rest of the distance in a jeep. It was indeed one of the most memorable transport (not the most comfortable, mind you!). A rusty, rickety jeep with seats coming apart – and, on top of it you go racing on a bumpy mud path with another jeep in equally bad shape! Weren’t we happy to be out of it!

A quick wash, lunch – and I wanted to get out. So, off we went – me, Sandeep, and Kiran – walking down a path to the river. Kiran was the one spotting all those little things – me dutifully following him to the subjects That reminds me of another – Satish – the ever helpful friend of Ram & Sandeep. He’d always find subjects for our cameras!

We were back soon and it was tea-time. While we were waiting for the rest of the group to gather for another walk, we had tea and took more pictures. I got one of my favorites from the trip – a macro of a flower.

Soon, we set off for another walk – a much larger group this time.

Other than the river and the rafting – nothing much out there. On the whole, a good place for a relaxed weekend. This trip was more about people than about photography

Quick notes:

Walk around the place – you can get close to the river too. A word of caution there – always one foot at a time! The river looks much shallower on the surface.
Be prepared to get drenched – quick-dry clothes, footwear that dry easily, and a dry bag for your electronics.
Get your directions before you leave – the places aren’t marked really well and mobile networks aren’t perfect out there. You’ll have to rely on the directions you have and the locals

Alcatraz – the prison and the lighthouse (among other things), is now a tourist attraction – one of the oh-so-typical places to see when you are in San Francisco. I did feel bad for the inmates at times – to be able to see the free world and not be there – it’s worse than not seeing the free world at all! I walked around like an intruder – taking pictures like I was stepping into someone’s personal space.

The first long weekend of the year was just two weeks into the year and I wanted to travel – the place was Gokarna. So, on Jan 11, we set off to Hubli from Hyderabad. The plan was Hyderabad – Hubli – Karwar – Gokarna. We reached Hubli and missed the bus to Gokarna! The bus to Ankola was ready to leave, and were told that we can reach Gokarna from there.

Soon, we were out of the concrete jungle and on to some nice roads. After a couple of stops, the bus halted for a break at Yeswantpur. We got to know that the Gokarna bus was the one right next to us and those who are traveling to Gokarna can get in, so we swapped buses midway!

Soon, we came to a long line of lorries and tankers hampered by work on the ghat roads, with passenger vehicles trying to get ahead of them. Before we were out of that, I had lost count of the number of tankers I’d seen. Finally, we reached Gokarna at 1pm!

After lunch, introductions, and a good wash at the hotel, we rested for a while and then set off to the Om beach that evening. They (autos) charge 100 Rs to get to most of the beaches. The beaches are out of the town (except the main beach) and the approach roads are quite scenic. You travel on hilly roads and walk down to the beach

We walked around the beach and waited for the sun to go down for some sunset pictures. In the meantime, we went on a boat ride – saw the other beaches from the boat, trying to plan the next two days.

After the boat ride, the guys went for a swim and I had all the time to walk around the beach with my Olympus C770 and my friend’s Panasonic FZ50. Close to sunset, we climbed the rocks and watched the sun set over the ocean. After the sun went down, we got back, had an early dinner, and returned to the hotel.

Day 2: We decided to go to the Kudle Beach first. Another auto, another winding road, another beautiful beach. I’ve seen a clean beach before (think Pichavaram) and many dirty beaches (think Chennai). But, Gokarna is unbeatable for the amount of life on the beach – that is, life other than human life. You can find fishes, seaweeds; we found whalebones (according to Abhijeet) and colorful rocks too. You can walk around the beach all day and not be bored, i.e., if you look at all the little things around you.

We had our lunch in one of the shanties that offered Mexican, Italian, Israeli cuisines – at a very reasonable price. After lunch, we had some yummy apple pie (?) After lunch, I went back to relaxing in the shade and my friend spent time watching fishes in a pool of water (it ended when he saw someone peeing into his warm pool!)

I sat there watching the waves, the rocks, the beach, the people – and after getting into the water, my friend didn’t want to go to any other beach. So, he spent the day in the water – swimming, searching for fishes, seaweeds, crabs I spent the day taking pictures of everything.

Soon enough, they found a seaweed – and Amir crowned Abhijeet with the seaweed. Right away, we heard someone screaming “Thieves! Thieves!!” She came swimming, got her seaweed crown and swam back to her parents – much to our amusement! And when she got out of the water, she crowned one of the rocks as the prince and the guardian of the crown. Sweet! A few minutes later, the seaweed was back home in the seawater, thanks to Amir!

Another evening, another walk up the road, another day ends!

Day 3: It was time to return – but before our long journey back home, we had about half a day to spare. We decided to check out the Main Beach (aka Gokarna Beach) besides the temple as it was the closest and we didn’t have an entire day to spare. We’d also checked out – didn’t make sense to be carrying things around! We walked to the beach, and found a shady spot between two boats.

When I reached this beach behind the temple, I couldn’t but compare and contrast this beach with what I saw over the last two days. The Main Beach is something from which a traveler can stay away – it is the noisy, dirty, and polluted beach. The other beaches are equally calm, clean, and beautiful. The Main Beach is very much like one of the Chennai beaches.

The temple is surrounded by a lot of shops selling souvenirs, beads, bangles from camel bones, even tiger nails! I am not sure how authentic they are – but, one thing that may put away local (ie, Indian) travelers is the price! Almost all shops seem to exist for the foreign traveler – I can easily find most of those beads/chains and bangles in Hyderabad/Chennai. Somehow, quite surprisingly, Gokarna still has the run-down, old town look – there aren’t many new, high-rise building. In fact, most of the buildings on the main street look as if they may fall apart anytime.

After walking around the town for a while, we decided to get back – had lunch on our way and reached the bus stand. We went to Ankola from Gokarna – which proved to be another crazy ride. From Ankola, it was another bus to Hubli. The new bus stand at Hubli was a disappointment – it was unused, dark, had very few shops, and was out of the town! If I go again, I will save myself the trouble and wait at the old bus stand. Another bus, another long journey, another day and we were back in Hyderabad. We rushed home to prepare for another day at work!

It is an amazing place for a relaxed weekend – the only thing that keeps me from going there every other weekend is the journey and the distance – It is a place worth visiting but not good for a weekend trip, at least not from Hyderabad.

We reached Bhongir and tried to find the entrance to the fort. If you reach a spot that doesn’t have the tell-tale fort walls, you’ve reached the entrance! We crossed the road, and started climbing this huge, single rock in front of us. After a distance, you’d find the steps! My friend was already cursing me for suggesting this place. Here and there, we’d find a shady spot – a welcome relief from the sun – and we’d sit down for a while to rest there. Once you’re up there, you can see the entire town – the bus stand, the railway station, the surrounding fields, and hills to the distance. It was quite a beautiful day – I’ve always loved watching the shadows of the moving clouds and that day was a treat for me.

While we rested half way up, we began to wonder if we should even go further. There was nothing up there – at least, nothing to indicate the presence of a huge fort – and, in front of us, was this huge hill (rock?) to climb! Yes, set your expectations right – this is no big fort. Especially, if you’re an outsider (like me) and you’ve been to Golconda, don’t imagine a similar fort. This one is more like a little outpost! We finally decided to climb the hill.

A few feet away, the rock had flattened out and there were these little structures here and there. We also found a cannon – and took a few pictures there. Further up, you’d find steps carved into the rock – makes walking a li’l bit easier. However, there are places where there are no steps and you are on your own. Finally, we reached the top – and, well, there wasn’t anything impressive. Other than a tower, a few remaining walls, and a newly built building, there isn’t much out there. So, after walking around for a while, we decided to get back.

On our way down, we stopped for a while near those walls – one of those walls was high enough to block out the sun – seated there shaded from the sun, watching the clouds go by, and watching a few other people who had come to visit this place…I got all those pretty blue sky pictures.

There is “Danger” written in quite small letters (in my opinion, not at all attention grabbing). If you are not careful, you could walk over a patch of grass to find yourself standing at the edge of the rock – with nothing to stop your fall. Though, you’d have to go out of your way to stand at the edge

After relaxing there for a while, we got back. An hour later, we were back in Hyd

Finally… Be prepared to climb this huge rock – without steps at places
Carry enough food and water
And you’ll find nothing but a view from up above.
A great place to get away and relax – nothing more, nothing less.

How to reach (Google Map): It is about an hour from Uppal X Road, Hyderabad. As you ride along the Warangal High Road, you can’t miss the fort. Of course, the town is named Bhongir (also known as Bhuvanagiri)

From Bhongir

After a few days of uncertainty and some last-minute planning, we were off to Pichavaram, a mangrove near Chidambaram (Click here for Map) – 250 km from Chennai,
a place featured in The Road Less Travelled.

We started on Saturday afternoon – to Chidambaram. It was a typical Chennai afternoon – hot and humid. After a not-so-easy journey of 6 hours in the bus, we got off at Chidambaram around 9pm. Oh ya, we did play bluff and I wasn’t good at it (well, I get to say that I am not good at bluffing!).

It was a rainy night and we had to walk to a couple of hotels to find a place. Finally, we got a place, a li’l away from the bus stand (Thanks to Simon’s call to one of the hotels earlier that day). The next morning, we walked down the road to one of those small hotels, had a quick breakfast, and then, we waited for a bus that would take us to Pichavaram.

Once we were out of Chidambaram, it was a typical rural scene – fields that stretch afar, a narrow road, few people walking by, children playing… soon, we were at Pichavaram. Quite a small place and all that you can do is go boating and get atop the tower that serves as a viewpoint.

First we went on the boat ride – into the mangroves. It was good – but could have been better. It looks like a lot of research happens there – you’d find the botanical names of trees written on small boards.
It was over too soon and we were left wondering where to go. Though the article in Hindu mentions a ban on photography, we were allowed to take cameras and were even given a ticket for the camera (Rs. 50 for a camera).

We asked the people at Pichavaram for other places to visit and got the way to the nearest beach – get off at the next village and, about 4 kms from there, we’ll have to take a boat across the backwaters to get to the beach.

At Killai, we were wondering – Should we walk? After the walking we did in Yelagiri, I was sure it would be interesting. There are things you can see and observe only when you walk – you can stop and talk to the people, walk around and observe as they go about their day…But then, Amit didn’t want to walk! So, we got two cycles for rent (no questions asked, no security deposits!) – and I got a free ride

And, there we were, cycling along the village road towards the backwaters – wondering if we should step into someone’s house and ask for a meal! Soon enough, we reached the backwaters – and there was this guy waiting in the shelter nearby who offered to drop us on the other side for 20 bucks each. We left the cycles there, and off we went – with no idea of what was awaiting us on the other side of the backwaters.

We were told that people used to live there before the tsunami, but no one lives there anymore – and the place did look like it was hit pretty bad in the tsunami (2004) – even a board that said, let’s grow more trees and reduce the impact of the tsunami; warning signs saying do not let the animals graze here or do not chop these trees – a grim reminder to what these people faced a couple of years ago.

Soon we were on the other side of the backwaters – our boatman left us there saying, get back to this spot and I will come and pick you up. So, there we were, on this island, not another soul other than the three of us, and no way to get back other than wait for our boatman!

With what seemed to be like a grove was on our left and an endless stretch of sand to our right – we walked towards the sea. If you ever visit Chidambaram and love being on a quiet beach, you should visit this place. Am lost for words to describe the moment when we came upon the sea – as a Chennaiite, I’ve been on the beach quite often – but the Chennai beaches are crowded – and can be dirty too! Here we were, on a quiet, lonely place – clean and calm… it was simply beautiful….It was a mid-day siesta out there – right below the mid-day sun, we were out there at the beach. Thankfully, it was a cloudy day and we weren’t at the mercy of the sun.

Soon, it was time to get back – to go to the other side of the island and wait for our boatman. While we were walking along the grove, we decided to explore – we thought we’d find someone living there – or at least a locked house. What we found was a grim reminder of the tsunami that hit this region a couple of years ago. There was this house standing in the middle of that grove – more like an outhouse – windows and doors stripped, yet heavy things like the grinding stone remain – well, not so long ago, it was someone’s front yard.

Time to return – our boatman coming to get us back to mainland. We returned the cycles and walked around a bit before we took the bus to Chidambaram. After lunching at a crowded restaurant, we got back to the room and we left around 2pm. Plan was to take the 3pm bus to Chennai – which would not happen. Thanks to the weekend crowd, something we forgot about, all buses were full. So, if you are planning a weekend visit, and traveling by bus, one, you’d be better off getting into one at Chidambaram, and two, you better leave a little earlier. If not, book your return tickets at the earliest and do not wait till you get out to board a bus.

In short, a great weekend getaway – especially if you want to get away from the crowded beaches of Chennai and want to explore the countryside. Just remember to book those return tickets!

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From Pictures from Pichavaram

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